Embracing my inner caveman

January 4th is a special day for me, a day I celebrate strength and resilience. On this day 20 years ago I became a single mom, solely responsible for my two sons. After four years of marriage my husband set off to find himself and an easier life on the other side of the Atlantic Ocean. And what an amazing 20 years its been. I’ve just enjoyed a visit from the boys and we spent a cozy and crazy Christmas week here in Tbilisi. We had so so much fun! And they are such wonderful men, soon 23 and 25. I couldn’t be more proud.

So I decided to mark this life milestone with a little weekend roadtrip to Vardzia in Southern Georgia, an ancient cave settlement that was inhabited during the Bronze Age. I tried to find accommodation at a resort in the area but there was no availability so I settled on a simple guesthouse (via booking.com and a phone call with the owner to make sure all was in order). I bought a bottle of wine and some Ferrero chocolates and packed a little bag and my camera - photography makes me so happy!

Solo driving is great when you have good podcasts to listen to or a friend to keep you company (fingers crossed for good wifi coverage). I drove through beautiful snow covered landscapes and some real desolate villages (the lady balancing four buckets of fresh milk on her old fashioned shoulder poles was impressive). For the first time in my time in Georgia I couldn’t find a single open cafe during the 4,5 hours of driving. I should have known the Georgians take their new years holiday seriously.

Vardzia is amazing - it looks like a place from the Lord of the Rings. It’s Georgia’s Rock City Petra. It’s a whole complex of caves, a palace and monastery excavated out of solid rock alongside a mountain by Georgians for their “mountain queen”, their fabled queen Tamar. She was the first woman to govern Georgia in her own right and is the only queen referred to as king. How significant isn’t that?! I think I’ll call myself mountain queen today, in my own right.

I manage to find the guesthouse but its deserted - wtf?! A man (the owner) is waiting for me in his car to tell me that it’s closed for the season but they have planned for me to stay in their guestroom at home (classic bait-and-switch?!). “Follow me in your car” he says and we drive for 15 minutes on dirt roads (thank god for my 4x4 car) and we finally arrive just as its getting dark at a very simple farmhouse with a smiling lady who welcomes me. If I was in any other country I wouldn’t be doing this. Promise. But I’m in Georgia, a country oozing hospitality and safety. My gut tells me its ok.

My bedroom is basic, and basically purple everywhere. The hot water isn’t working. And it’s freezing cold in the whole house except right next to the fireplace in the living room. I drink tea with the family and watch the news about Iran-US tensions and……. a gas explosion that killed several people in an apartment on the street next to where I live in Tbilisi?! Holy smoke! (sorry, couldn't help myself)

So the mountain queen ends her day in bed wearing her woolen underclothes and socks (thankfully I'm an experienced traveler) in the middle of rural Georgia, feeling that “It is as it should be!”. Not just today, but the last 20 years. I love you Russell and Kenny. I think we’ve lived a masterpiece - and we've got so much more creating to do!